Troubleshooting Fit Problems: Outdoor Cushions FAQ

1) Why do my outdoor seat cushions slide forward when I sit down?

Usually it’s a combo of a slick frame surface, a slick fabric, and/or cushions that are slightly undersized front-to-back. Fixes include adding ties, Velcro (hook-and-loop), non-slip pads, clips, or under-cushion straps—especially on smooth metal frames or windy patios. (Hook and Loop)

2) What’s the best way to keep cushions from sliding on outdoor furniture?

The most common solutions customers use are:

• Hook-and-loop (Velcro-style) strips
• Non-slip/grip liner
• Cushion clips
• Straps that anchor from underneath
• Ties (fabric, loop-tie systems, Velcro straps) (Hook and Loop)

3) My cushion “fits,” but it looks sloppy. Why?

Fit isn’t just width and depth—thickness, fill firmness, and cushion style matter too. A cushion that’s too soft can “puddle” and look loose; a cushion that’s too firm can look overstuffed. Also, boxed vs knife-edge changes the silhouette a lot. (sophieconran)

4) Should I measure the furniture frame or the old cushion?

Start with the furniture frame whenever possible. Old cushions can compress, distort, or shrink/relax over time. Many buying guides still mention measuring existing cushions, but you’ll get the most accurate fit by confirming against the frame dimensions. (The Company Store)

5) I measured my old cushion and it’s bigger than the frame. Is that normal?

Yes—some OEM cushions are made slightly “full” and can overhang a touch, and old cushions can also change shape. If you want a cleaner, tailored fit, use the frame as the final reference.

6) I’m between sizes (example: 24.5"). Do I round up or down?

Most of the time:

• Round down if the cushion sits inside a frame opening or between arms (tight spaces).
• Round up only if you have open sides and don’t mind a slightly fuller look.

If the cushion is going between arms, “too big” is worse than “slightly small.”

7) My cushion is too wide—what happens?

Too-wide cushions tend to:

• Bow in the middle
• Wrinkle at the corners
• Fight the arms/frame and look bulky
  If it’s only slightly wide, the cover may still zip, but the finished look can be off.

8) My cushion is too narrow—what happens?

Too-narrow cushions are the #1 reason for:

• Sliding
• Gaps at the sides
• A “cheap” look even with premium fabric
  This is when ties/Velcro/non-slip helps—but correct sizing is the best fix.

9) My cushion depth feels wrong. What’s the most common cause?

People often measure the old cushion depth instead of the usable seat depth on the frame. Many guides recommend measuring width/depth/thickness, but on real furniture, the “usable” seat depth is what determines comfort and appearance. (The Company Store)

10) Why do my back cushions stick up too high (or look too short)?

Back height depends on:

• The frame back height
• Cushion thickness
• Whether the cushion sits “down in” the frame or on top
  For multi-seat sofas, it’s also important to size each cushion so the set aligns cleanly. (BBQGuys)

11) My sofa seat is one long cushion area—how do I size multiple seat cushions?

A common approach is dividing the inside seating width by the number of cushions you want, then adjusting for spacing and arms. (For example, three equal cushions vs two.) (BBQGuys)

12) Why do my cushions blow off the furniture in wind?

Lightweight cushions + smooth frames + no attachment points = lift-off. Windy patios do best with:

• Ties
• Under-cushion straps
• Clips
• Hook-and-loop
  And yes—sometimes the best answer is “store them during storms.” (Hook and Loop)

13) Do ties really work, or is Velcro better?

It depends on the furniture and how you use it:

• Ties are classic and reliable for many dining chairs.
• Hook-and-loop can look cleaner and is great when you want quick removal.
• Under-straps are excellent for sectionals and deep seating that shifts. (Hook and Loop)

14) Can you add ties where my furniture needs them (even if the website doesn’t show that option)?

Yes. Outdoor furniture is not standardized, so tie location isn’t “one template fits all.” If you send photos and describe where the ties should anchor, we can often accommodate custom tie type and placement as a special order.

15) My cushion looks wrinkled after shipping—did I get the wrong size?

Not necessarily. Compression from packaging can cause temporary wrinkling. Most covers relax as the insert lofts back up. If wrinkling persists after a few days, it may indicate the cover is slightly oversized or the insert is underfilled.

16) Why does my cushion look “domed” in the middle?

This is common with knife-edge styles or softer fills. Knife-edge construction doesn’t have a boxed band, so the cushion’s “shape” comes from the fill and can appear domed. (cushionwarehouse.co.uk)

17) Boxed vs knife-edge—does it affect fit?

It affects appearance and how the cushion holds its shape:

• Boxed looks more tailored and structured.
• Knife-edge looks more casual/relaxed and can vary more with fill. (sophieconran)

18) My cushions slide more on some fabrics than others—why?

Some fabrics (and some furniture finishes) are naturally slicker. Cushion fill that has softened over time can also reduce grip. This is why grippers, straps, and ties can be more important on certain sets. (Carolina Patio Furniture)

19) My cushion fits the seat, but the back cushion doesn’t align—what did I miss?

Common culprits:

• Seat thickness pushing the back cushion higher than expected
• Back cushion measured from the old cushion instead of the frame
• Frame back angle not accounted for
  Photos help a lot here.

20) What’s the fastest way to get help if I’m unsure about fit?

Send:

• A top-down photo of the furniture
• A side photo showing seat/back relationship
• Your measurements (width/depth/thickness)
• Notes about any sliding issues or tie needs

We can usually spot the issue quickly and recommend the best fix.